Leek and Spring Pea Risotto: Shelter, Stand, and Stir

As we enter Month 2 of sheltering in place, many of us have been spending more time in the kitchen than ever before. I'm looking forward to more kitchen experiments once I get this working + homeschooling thing sorted out, but for now I need quick, easy go-tos that we won't get bored with.

One of my traditional dinner party standbys has always been risotto, mainly because the only real work it requires is standing and stirring, leaving me free to drink and chat with my guests during the entire dinner prep. These days, it allows me to sneak in a Zoom happy hour or FaceTime with friends without abandoning all my parental responsibilities. Huge win.

This particular recipe is one of my favorites from the "sneaky vegan" arsenal because it is a fully satisfying plant-based meal but it's so good, no one notices. In general, vegan risotto need not be an oxymoron, but a soy-based bastardization of this authentic regional recipe would be borderline blasphemous in my family.

Most people are blown away by how good this is seriously, especially because there is virtually nothing in it.

The actual recipe is ridiculously simple: slice up some leeks, cook 'em down, add rice and stir, add liquids and stir (repeat this move about 10 times), throw in peas at the end, garnish and serve. 

However, there are a few secrets to making a truly transcendent risotto. I'm eternally grateful that they were passed on to me, so if you're interested, here they are:

1) First and foremost, take your time. Grab your iPod, open a bottle of wine, phone a friend and get comfortable in front of the stove. Plan to be there for at least 40-45 minutes, adding one cup of liquid at a time and stirring constantly.Con-stant-ly. Leaving rice to soak in an unattended steambath yields nothing but...well, cooked rice.

2) You don't have to make it yourself, but whether it comes from a can, a box, or a boullion, use broth. Never water. I cannot emphasize this enough, in conjunction with the previous point. Rice cooks itself in water. Risotto is prepared by constantly adding and cooking down broth.

3) Use good risotto rice and the best quality ingredients you can find. Cooking is nothing but chemistry. Fats have a place and a purpose, but if you wish to avoid them, compensating for the lack of butter, cream and cheese in this recipe is easy when you use fresh ingredients and give their flavors time to develop and marinate.

4) If by some bizarre chance you've forgotten about an open bottle of Prosecco - or any sparkling or white wine - and allowed it to go flat in the back of your fridge (gasp!), this is an excellent way to rectify the situation. Use that last cup of wine (surely you don't have more than that left over) for the first absorption before continuing to add the broth...one cup at a time.

5) It bears repeating: KEEP STIRRING. Because it is neither butter, nor cream, nor cheese that gives risotto that delectably gooey consistency. It is the constant, patient process of stirring that breaks up the starches in the rice, which in turn, become the gooey goodness that holds everything together. This simple act of love makes all the difference. As it is with all things in these strange days.

Leek Risotto with Spring Peas

serves 4

2T olive oil

3 large leeks, white parts only, sliced thinly in rounds (approx 3-4 cups)

Water

5-6 cups vegetable broth (how much you end up using depends on your rice)

1 cup prosecco or white wine

2 cups risotto rice (arborrio is ideal)

1.5 cups peas, frozen or fresh. Definitely, definitely not canned

Garnish:

2Tparmesan

a handful of chopped parsley

fresh ground black pepper

Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot. Toss in the leeks and stir to coat. Add a tablespoon of water and simmer on medium heat for 20 minutes. Keep adding more water a tablespoon at a time as needed, just to make sure the little guys aren't sticking.

After 20 minutes, add the rice, and prepare to spend the next 20 minutes stirring the liquids in, one cup at a time. Add the wine and stir until absorbed. Repeat with a cup of broth and keep stirring. Keep the heat around medium, just enough to gently simmer and absorb about a cup of liquid every 4-5 minutes.

Start taste-testing after the first 3-4 cups and when it starts to soften enough to chew, you're getting close. This is a good time to adjust the salt to taste. The rice should start "feeling" done: soft enough to chew through but with some firm resistance left. Now is the time to throw in the peas and add more broth as needed. Keep. Stirring.

You should now have a gooey coating of deliciousness that holds the rice together and looks more like a thick sauce than a soup. Cover the pot, remove it from the heat (mix in the parmesan now) and let it sit for at least 5 minutes while you set the table.

Serve it up with a sprinkle of fresh parsley, a few grinds of fresh pepper and some smashed grissini or bread crumbs.

Buon appetito!